The is the lowest priced shaft puller on the market and one of the best! It will remove any size shaft up to .51" in diameter.
It can be used with or without a vise. You may order a few ferrules with your puller so you can repair one or more
clubs right out of the box without further shopping and without buying more than you need.
PRO Golf Discount charges $50 or more to re-shaft a single club. You have to make a trip to take your clubs to them, then make
another trip to pick them up when they are finished. They take 4 or more business days in addition to the time it takes you to
work the two trips to the store into your schedule. With the optional supplies that I offer (you can buy a single ferrule
if that's all you need) you can almost pay for everything you need with what you will save when you re-shaft one single club,
and you can do it yourself in much less time. Think of what you will save over several years or a lifetime!
If all you need to do right now is to re-shaft one or two clubs, you can buy everything you need when you pay for your puller.
These extra items could save you having to spend an additional $20 or so up front and wait days to buy the items in quantities
you may not need. I do not guarantee that my ferrules will be exactly what you want, but they will work if your wood and iron
shafts are the most common diameters - .335 for woods and .370 for irons.
The puller is about 5 inches long and weighs just over a pound. The slotted template that comes with the puller will
allow you to pull any shaft up to .51" in diameter. The puller is coated in a dark (almost black) metallic gray.
Note that the two ferrules and the double syringe of epoxy shown in the picture above are not included.
The puller is very sturdy and carries an unconditional life-time warranty against defects or breakage in normal use.
The wood block is not covered under warranty. If you have warranty issues, come back to this web site and
send me an Email.
For warranty service, you return the puller to me and I will pay the shipping to return it to you unless
one or both of the studs are broken or stripped, in which case you will pay shipping both ways.
The following items are included with every puller... (This list includes everything you see in the picture above
except for the two ferrules and the double syringe of epoxy. If you find anything missing when you receive your puller,
contact me and I'll send the missing items immediately).
The main body of the puller with two welded studs sticking out the side
A side piece with two holes drilled so it will fit over the studs on the main body of the puller
A short piece of hose slit lengthwise so it will fit over your golf club shafts and protect them when they are being
clamped into the shaft puller
A long square piston with a u-shaped prong welded to one end - the piston is square to that it can not turn and
allow metal to come in contact with your golf club shaft as you remove the head
A template with 4 u-shaped slots - one of the slots will fit over your golf club shaft and the template will press
against the hosel of the club head to force it off the shaft
A large bolt which, as it is tightened into the large nut welded to end of the main body of the puller, will drive
the piston and prong assembly and the template against the hosel of the club head to force it off the shaft
A small block of wood with two holes drilled so it will fit over the studs on the main body of the puller - use this
block of wood when you wish to use a vise with your shaft puller
Two small nuts which fit the studs on the main body of the puller - use these nuts when you wish to clamp your shaft
into the puller without using a vise
My puller is self contained. You can use it anywhere. You don't need a bench vise. You don't even need a bench. I
prepared to pull my first shaft while I was walking across my driveway to show my newly invented shaft puller to my neighbor.
He supplied the heat source when I got there and I was done almost as fast as I told this.
All you need besides the puller is an adjustable wrench or an open end or box wrench to turn the large bolt. You can use a vise
or you can hold the puller by hand. If you are not using a vise, you may want to use a second adjustable wrench or an open end
or box wrench to hold the puller while you turn the bolt. You can hold the puller by using an open end wrench on the nut that
the bolt screws into or you can use an adjustable wrench to hold the body of the puller itself.
You also need a heat source. A heat gun will do. A propane torch is best and cheapest - about $13 at Wall Mart including
the propane.
The best way to show off my puller is to show you how to use it to pull a shaft...
These instructions are so
simple that they are not included with the shaft puller. You can always return to this web site if you need to see them again,
or you can print this page and keep it. Failure to follow these instructions could void your warranty or damage your shaft.
Insert the square shaft all the way into the square hole in the end of the puller.
Screw the large bolt just far enough in so the square solid steel shaft can be inserted all the way into the puller.
The rest is just as easy.
Place the split piece of black rubber hose over the shaft about 1 inch from the club head. Notice that the ferrule has
already been removed. You will have to use something sharp to remove the ferrule and it will be destroyed when you remove it.
A few light hammer blows on a sharp chisel, or any sharp tool used properly and carefully, will usually split the ferrule
so you can pull it off with pliers. Use common sense and take caution not to damage the shaft while cutting and removing
the ferrule.
Place the shaft and hose into the long diamond shaped opening formed by the main body of the puller and the side piece.
Make sure the end of club head hosel (the part the shaft goes into) is about 1/4 inch past the U-shaped prong on the end
of the puller. Place the side piece over the two studs and place the slit in the hose up so you can see it between
the two sides of the puller. That allows one edge of the hose to "escape" as you tighten the puller onto a small shaft.
It also keeps the metal puller from contacting the shaft as you tighten the puller onto a large shaft. Start the nuts
onto the studs by hand - only if you will not be using a vise. Make sure the nuts turn easily and are not cross threaded,
or you can strip the threads on the nuts and/or the studs.
Depending on the method you use, only one of the following images applies...
OR
If you are using a vise, place the wood block over the studs and do not use the small nuts, then clamp everything in the vise
as shown above; otherwise use a wrench to tighten the nuts on the studs to clamp the two sides of the puller to the hose and shaft.
You can hold everything in one hand while you tighten the nuts with the other. I place the golf club shaft under my arm and
use it for more leverage while I tighten the two nuts. Use care and common sense and do not bend the shaft to the breaking point.
CAUTION! Make sure the nuts are on the two studs straight and that they turn easily by hand. If they are not on straight and you
tighten them and damage the threads on either the nuts or the studs, repairs will not be covered by warranty unless you find me
in a good mood. I usually am in a good mood but my mood is not part of the warranty.
Note the size of the studs. If you use extra tools to hold the puller while you tighten the two nuts onto the studs, it is
possible to apply too much pressure and break the studs. There is NEVER any reason to tighten the nuts that tight! If you think
you need more clamping power, use a vise! However, a vise is never really necessary. If you tighten the nuts within reason, and
the puller still will not keep the shaft from sliding as you tighten tte large bolt, then tightening the nuts until the studs are in
danger of breaking off will not solve the problem anyway. You probably have not applied enough heat to break the glue seal which
bonds the club head to the shaft. You may need a better heat source, but applying heat for more time will usually solve the problem.
There may even be a pin through the hosel and shaft on some older clubs. Generally, if the weld gives way and a stud breaks off,
that is covered under the warranty, but if the weld holds and you simply twist or snap off a stud, your warranty claim is again at
the mercy of my mood as explained above. If you do break off a stud, remember, you can always use the puller in a vise by removing
the studs or by using the included block of wood.
Take the template - the piece with the 4 U-shaped openings and find the smallest opening that will fit over the shaft and place
the template over the shaft between the club head and the prong on the end of the puller. Notice in the illustration above that
the thumb is placed against the prong on the end of the piston to keep it turned as far as the square piston will allow it to turn
so that it will not move later while you are applying pressure by turning the large bolt. While keeping the prong in that position,
tighten the large bolt on the end of the puller enough to hold the template and prong in place.
Depending on the method you use, only one of the following images applies...
OR
OR
Holding everything in one hand (or you may hold the puller with an adjustable wrench on the main body or with a 2nd open end wrench
on the nut welded to the end of the main body), use the other hand to continue to tighten the large bolt until the prong is exerting
considerable pressure against the end of the club head hosel. If you apply heat properly, you should be able to pull most shafts
easily without using a vise or additional wrenches.
Be careful and use common sense here. Do not let the wrench come in contact with and damage the shaft. It is probably
impossible to damage the shaft by over-tightening the bolt, because the hose would give and allow the shaft to slide a little.
In any case, your shaft is not covered by my warranty.
Generally, you do not need to worry about damaging anything. If you carefully performed the previous step, the square shaft
can not turn. That means it can not apply potentially damaging torque to the shaft. It can only pull straight out.
Apply heat to the club head hosel to break the glue seal between the club head and the shaft. 30 seconds with a
propane torch should be plenty and then some. A heat gun will take longer. If the club head does not come loose,
tighten the large bolt to apply a little more pressure. If the club head still does not pop loose, apply more
heat. It is unlikely that you will be able to tighten the large bolt enough to damage a shaft with this puller,
but be careful just the same. Notice that if you apply the heat carefully, the puller will not become hot and
there is little chance of burning your hand.
When the club head is loose, continue to turn the large bolt until the club head comes free of the shaft.
That's all there is to it. You've just pulled your first shaft and you have a perfectly usable shaft and club head
if you want them both and if (unlike our illustration) they were both usable to start with.
Note from ShaftPuller.com: This one is my favorite and latest. Thanks Mike!
Hello, I finally got to use your extractor. I have only one complaint. WHERE WERE YOU YEARS AGO??!?!?
This extractor is absolutely unbelievable!
I took apart one of my clubs.....I use a bernz-o-matic mini torch and my vise. I also find it easy to use a 3/4 inch socket to turn the large nut. I could not believe how fast and easy it was!
I said to myself ...No (blank,blank) way! So I tried another club thinking the bond was not so tight on the other. And, well, presto! it came apart just as easy with little as 20 secs. of heat! This thing is wonderful! So, I started taking more clubs apart! Still...all easy!--Awesome! The time I saved from pulling and twisting and wearing a large leather glove to not burn myself was unbelievable! Thankyou, and I wish I found this earlier. The price is great! The product is great! Now, with all the extra time I spent pulling my clubs apart, I will have to use that time to put them back together again! O-well....once again thankyou ...Mike
I pulled seven irons with my new shaft puller....all went super once I got used to the procedure.
You've got a real winner here for the occasional clubmaker!!
Received the item last week..you are right ! Its fast, and cheap simple way to take off the shafts....it works..... thx pda576 ed
Hi!!! When I came across this auction I just had to write you a quick note.
I've had one of your pullers for a couple of months now and I love it.
For the price you can't beat it. It works so well I can't ever forsee replacing it with a more expensive one,
even if my club making hobby grows into a part or full time business!!! Dan "whistleman123" Hoenigman
Seller's note: Dan was one of the few who had a faulty part in his extractor when it was delivered
(see below). He spent considerable time fixing it himself instead of returning it to me. He still was gracious
enough to send me this unsolicited testimonial. If I had been soliciting testimonials, I would not have contacted Dan.
I bought one of your shaft extractors a couple of months ago and I'm very pleased with it. I had never pulled a
graphite shaft before, but I had a pretty good idea how to go about it. I used your extractor as soon as it arrived
and removed two shafts. They came out in perfect shape with no damage. Thanks - Rich Cox
Hello Mr. Stratton, Thank you very much for calling me back about the shaft extractor that I need replacing.
I will be sending back to you. I understand that you will be shipping one to me as a replacement and I appreciate that.
It worked great on two shafts I pulled before I had the problem with the nut.
Seller's note: I shipped a new puller immediately. I did not wait to receive the damaged puller. I stood behind
my warranty even though the stripped nut could have been avoided by following the instructions below.
Hi there; Nice little puller you have here. Very clean straightforward design. ... I am a Machinist... Anyhow, nice tool.
Sincerely, Mark